The hills are alive

A quick blog update from Kate - we are nestled in the foothills of the Nilgri hills - in tamil Nadu on the border of Kerala and Karnataka staying in a lovely homestay tucked under a rather highlandish mountain! We are here following the footsteps of my dad who taught in coonor in the 70s - haven't got there yet but have retraced his elephant riding steps!

It's been a great 3 days - living in a plywood cabin - all made of plywood - but not as tasteful as jay's art... and luckily Jay's art doesn't include mice - I found one floating in the loo this morning - dead! After hearing them dance across the ceiling all night I was less sad than I might usually be. But mice aside we've had a great time... have managed 2 longish treks into the hills - one this morning at 7.30am - stopping to give Toby jam sandwiches at 9 beside a small waterfall and ending up woobly legged on Tigers Head Rock jutting out over an incredible misty panorama. Matty has finally taken to walking and is loving it - but is on the verge of killing me if i mention the highlands again! Toby runs manically along the paths pretending to be a car - and racing me - and then stopping to spot different poos... this am we spotted elephant (booring), fresh bear poo (like 10 mins old - rather scary as these are the most dangerous animals here - not afraid of people), tiger poo (rather old and disturbingly hairy). We also spotted a buffallo carcus from a tiger kill. It is rather scary crossing the cattle grid out of the farm we are staying in and then being told not to wear white, be quiet (try telling that to toby again and again) and with only a rather small man + machete between you and the great wild! However monkeys have been our only sighting on ther treks - and they just gawp at us...

We have also taken 2 jeep safaris! The only way you can get off the main road into the park is by government run safaris in the loudest old bus imaginable - but for the bargin price of 50p each. The first day we were not suprised that we didn't spot much - a couple of peacocks (we see them at Olly and Celine's house !!) , some wild boar (hairy pigs according to Tobes) and beautiful deer. But today I persuaded M to give it another go - a little later in the day at 5ish and we were rewarded by spotting 2 wild groups of elephants including calves - amazing - wonderful after seeing all their captive cousins, and a large herd of indian bison (can't remember their name) coming to a water hole - beautiful big beasts with white knee high socks and noses, and pink ears. We are disappointed not to have see Tigers - esp as 2 other groups either side of us did see one!!!! BUT Tobes claims he saw a panther.... so there you go! And we did open the door to our home to see wild boar out in front yesterday

In the evenings we sit round a camp fire while the hosts cook amazingly spicy food which we are eating with laddles of yogurt... Tobes either beside us in the pram asleep or havin g regular checks

The other main news is that we have booked our flight home! We leave on 11th Feb from Mumbai! exactly 2 months after arriving in India and 3 months after leaving UK.

The UK seems a million miles away but we are also excited about coming back to see all our friends - TObes announced he was happy as he would see (I was expecting him to say Ahaan and Freddy ... but ) his dumper truck...!

For the record - I have not once regretted coming on this trip - even when I thought I might loose my toes to frostbite on the train from varanassi to Delhi!

Also - pls excuse the cliche - but I have realised that there is nothing as beautiful as nature and I am wondering why we spend so much money trying to make things beautiful that ultimately are destroying nature.... M will kill me for this cliche

With that I am off to sneakily eat chocolate and go to bed - its 11pm - v. late for us here.

Love to you all